Hiking at Bell Smith Springs in Shawnee National Forest is such an adventure! Discover historical sites, see Devil’s Backbone, cross a large landbridge, ford streams and more. Plus, learn about a secret shortcut (for daredevil’s only)!
On the first day of our week-long vacation at Shawnee National Forest in Southern Illinois, our family drove over to Bell Smith Springs for some hiking. Despite a few mishaps, our day was so much fun.
We left Bell Smith Springs with sore legs, big grins and a feeling of accomplishment. We were “real” hikers there on pursuit of inspiring sights and adventure.
In this guide to hiking at Bell Smith Springs in Shawnee National Forest, I share our family’s experience – the trails we hiked, the sights we saw and all the things we missed during our visit – as well as helpful tips.
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Shawnee National Forest Hiking Adventure
Bell Smith Springs is home to eight miles of interconnected hiking trails that offer a variety of interesting sights – water features, rock formations, waterfalls, and a historic mill site. During our short afternoon visit, our family was determined to see three things – Devil’s Backbone, the Stone Staircase and the Natural Land Bridge.
Devil’s Backbone Rocks
One of the most popular sights at Bell Smith Springs is Devil’s Backbone. It is two huge triangular rocks lined up in the center of the creek bed. These huge jagged rocks were part of the canyon wall that had broken off and fallen into the creek below. The rocks are lined up in such a way that they resemble huge vertebrae from a giant beast (thusly named Devil’s Backbone).
Even though we had brought a printed map with us, we had trouble locating Devil’s Backbone at first. We had started our hike at the end of the circular parking loop (instead of the stone staircase). What looked like intersecting trails on our printed map actually turned out to be separate trails – one on top of the bluff and one below the bluff. We ended up making our way to the stone staircase, going down the stairs and then following the clearly marked signs directing us to Devil’s Backbone from that point.
PRO TIP: To easily find Devil’s Backbone, start your hike at the bottom of the stone staircase and follow the signs.
For the best view of Devil’s Backbone, you will need to ford the stream. Don’t worry! This is part of the actual trail anyway. (You will find yourself crossing streams often while hiking at Bell Smith Springs Recreation Area.)
The Stone Staircase at Bell Smith Springs
Another popular sight at Bell Smith Springs is the stone staircase. Built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corp, a seemingly never-ending number of stone steps pass through a narrow passageway between stone faces. It is an impressive sight to see and a great workout for your legs!
The stairs are split into two sections. A short open section takes you down to a landing with scenic views. After the landing, the second section of stairs begins. This second set of stairs is closed in by large stone walls on either side, and the stairs seem to never end because there are so many of them.
Going down the stairs is a little nerve-wracking; the steps are steep and narrow, and there are no handrails. Going up the stairs is not scary at all but our legs were burning from the exercise and energy required to go back up all those steep, narrow stairs… especially after hiking a couple miles of rugged trails.
Natural Land Bridge at Bell Smith Springs
Bell Smith Springs Recreation Area is also home to the largest natural land bridge in Illinois. And, guess what? The Natural Bridge Trail (yellow diamonds) takes you right over top of that bridge. What spectacular views! What an experience!
The brochure lists this loop trail as .9 miles long but it felt longer to us. AllTrails.com lists this trail as 1.4 miles. It’s a rugged trail with steep areas, it can be a little damp in areas and we had to climb over large stones along the trail.
Immediately after fording the stream, you come to the loop portion of this trail. At this point, you can go straight which leads you to a bunch of stone steps going uphill, a trail marked by yellow diamonds going to the right, and a trail marked by yellow diamonds to the left. We turned right. (HINT: I share details about the other two options in the shortcuts section below.)
We opted to follow the loop in a counter-clockwise direction so that we would cross the land bridge late in the hike. (This is a trick I like to employ to build anticipation and keep my kids motivated to keep going during hikes.)
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Going counter-clockwise we hiked along the stream a ways, up a rocky hill along paths that were sometimes a little muddy. Eventually the trail evens out on top of the bluff and leads you up to and over the natural rock bridge.
According to the Illinois State Geological Survey, this natural bridge is nearly 150 feet long, it is 30 feet wide, and it’s approximately 60 feet tall.
Being so wide, it is not scary crossing the land bridge. If you have a fear of heights, simply walk down the center of the bridge and stay away from the edges. (REMINDER: Always use caution when hiking along bluffs and be extra careful along cliff edges.)
As you continue along the trail, it takes you back down into the canyon and grants you beautiful views of the bridge from below (although at a slight distance).
Shortcuts to the Land Bridge
If I was to do this hike again with the kids, I would choose to shorten it. Being our last hike of a full hiking day, we were tired which made this moderate, rugged trail feel more difficult than it actually is.
There are two ways you can shorten this hike – the family-friendly way and the daredevil way.
The Family-Friendly Shortcut – Upon approaching the loop portion of the trail, simply turn left and trek along the trail in a clockwise direction. This will provide you with great views from below the land bridge, lead you up to the top of the bluff and over to the land bridge. Once you have had your fill of this natural wonder, simply turn around and go back the way you came. This will cut out a decent chunk of the trail length.
The Daredevil Shortcut – This shortcut is not for the faint of heart. Upon crossing the stream, you can opt to skip the loop trail. Instead of turning left or right, head to the stairs straight ahead. Go up the stairs and follow a short trail to the base of the bluff. Here you will find ladder rungs made of rebar going right up the side of the bluff!!! Eek! Climb the ladder and the land bridge will be a few feet to your left after you reach the top.
If I was to do this hike again, we would opt to take the family-friendly shortcut. Although, we did see one young couple take the daredevil route. Hats off to them and their bravery!
Other Hiking Trails and Sights to See
Bell Smith Springs is home to two other trails and a handful of other interesting sights.
Sentry Bluff Trail
The Sentry Bluff Trail is a 2.7-mile loop trail that is both moderate and rugged. (Some sources claim this trail is actually 3.2 miles in length.) Clearly marked with blue diamonds, this trail leads you along a bluff and by a waterfall named Boulder Falls. It interconnects with some of the general trails and with the Natural Bridge Trail.
Mill Branch Trail
The Mill Branch Trail is a 2-mile loop following along Mill Branch Creek. The hike is moderate difficulty and takes you through some remote areas. Along this hiking trail, you can expect to see lovely creek views and the Old Grist Mill Dam (the last remnants from a former community named Hartsville).
HINT: Don’t let the map fool you! Please note that on the park’s printable map this trail is mislabeled as Hill Branch Trail (instead of Mill Branch).
Springs
While hiking along the general trails to Devil’s Backbone, we saw signs pointing out the direction to some springs. We did not see these springs ourselves though, and they are not labeled on the printable map.
Tips for Visiting Bell Smith Springs in Shawnee National Forest
Hiking adventures await you. But first…
Before you visit Bell Smith Springs, check out these helpful tips to make your trip a success.
Parking is limited. We ended up parking in the small lot next to Redbud Campground. There is a short marked (white diamonds) trail leading down to the main parking areas from there.
Know your limitations, and plan accordingly. The Bell Smith Springs hiking trails are all considered moderate to difficult. If you are not experienced with difficult trails, you may want to start with short hikes. Hiking poles might also be a good idea.
Leave the stroller behind. These trails are rugged. Your stroller would be useless.
Bring water. You will get thirsty out on the trails. You may want some snacks as well.
Bring a map and pay attention to the signs along the trail. We printed a copy of the USDA brochure and trail map before our trip. While it was helpful for general navigation, we still found ourselves turned around at times. Fortunately, the trails are all clearly marked along the way with red, blue, yellow, or white diamonds. Also, the directional signs pointing the way to various sights were incredibly helpful.
Wear waterproof hiking footwear. There are several areas where you will have to ford streams using rocks strewn across the stream. The rocks shift under your feet and are sometimes submerged just under the water surface. Your shoes will get wet. Waterproof hiking footwear would be best for these hiking adventures.
Exercise Caution. These trails are rugged and go along steep drop offs and across streams. They can be difficult to trek and are especially slippery when wet. Be careful and watch your step. Hiking poles may be helpful.
Keep your tiny hiking companions in mind. These trails could be difficult (and perilous) for very small children. If you choose to hike it with small children in tow, have a plan on how to handle it when they get too tired to carry on. Also, watch your children very closely as you walk along steep drop off areas and cross streams.
Who’s Ready For These Shawnee National Forest Hikes?
Are the Bell Smith Springs trails your idea of fun hiking?
Are you up for that much adventure?
What Bell Smith Springs sights would you find most interesting?
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What a beautiful area! I’d love to see the land bridge, and the streams are so pretty. The daredevil ending of the trail sounds interesting. I’ll put this area on my list!
It was so beautiful there! And, what an adventure! You would love it.
Oooh ooooh! *raises hand* I’m ready for Shawnee National Forest hikes!! You actually had me at Devil’s Backbone. 😈 Thanks for sharing.
I bet you would really enjoy the hikes here. I forgot to mention it in the blog post but dogs are welcome here as well. (Must be on a leash and cleaned up after though)
I’m curious as to where the name Bell Smith comes from? I haven’t found a history on that.
That is an excellent question. I’ve been wondering about the origins of the name as well. Like you, I have yet to figure that out.